In the centre of Bourges in France you can find the building known as Palais Jacques Coeur which was built in the mid 15th century as a "grand maison", just a larger than normal residence. The word "palais" or palace started to be used in about 1820 when the royal courts of justice moved in. Unfortunately Jacques Coeur never saw the building completed, and it passed from owner to owner until 1923 when the state bought it. By then it was in a sorry state and massive restoration had to be carried out.
I've seen the palace from the outside more than once but early last summer we decided to see the inside. I remember the day well. We arrived too early and had to wait for the doors to open, but it was exceptionally hot and trying to find a shady spot to wait wasn't easy.
Many of the ceilings inside are magnificent but these two at least are reminiscent of upturned hulls of boats. I don't know if it was by accident or design but Jacques Coeur made his fortune from trading and commerce and owned twelve ships. There are references to his ships in a number of places so I like to think the ceilings reflect his dependence on ships too.
This second picture shows the attics which would once have been an area for storage and for servants' rooms. The ceiling is apparently unique in that it's made entirely of rafters.
I don't believe I have a proper excuse. I had to go back to France to see to the house and that was a problem, a hurdle that seemed to grow larger with each day that passed. In the event, it wasn't as distressing as I expected, I think because the house has happy memories going back all the 10 years since we first looked at the ruin it then was and decided it was our dream home.
French inheritance laws are a nightmare so I set off with every certificate I have ever owned up to and including the cat's vaccination certificates. I'm not sure why those came too, because he didn't accompany me on this trip, but you just never know. However it all became unnecessary when we discovered that the notaire (lawyer) who drew up the original purchase documents decided, I assume, he's help me out by giving ownership to our sons. How he managed to do this without feeling the need to let us know, I'm not at all sure.
So there I am, over there to put the house up for sale and it turns out I have no house to sell. This has required a massive rethink.
The indecision hasn't been helped by the beautiful warm sunny spring weather we had over there. The garden and river looked especially good.
Can I really leave all that behind?
Though driving through Paris on the way home could have changed all those thoughts. First the traffic jams (of a continuous nature):
and then the startling sight of a shanty town on the city's outskirts.
They don't advertise the "bidonvilles" in the tourist guides. Seeing this make me count my blessings.
When I was a child in Ireland we traditionally had colcannon and boiled bacon on 17 March, St Patrick's Day. Both could be eaten throughout the year but they were our special St Patrick's Day treat.
Colcannon is a dish made from potatoes and kale or cabbage, plus a few other ingredients. For St Patrick's Day my grandmother would hide a thimble, or more usually for us, a threepenny piece (a thruppenny bit) inside, bringing luck, pots of gold and anything else you could think of to the finder. Strangely there were always two threepenny pieces and even more strangely, each grandchild would find one.
I decided to make myself some colcannon. Simplicity itself:
4-6 large potatoes
250 g or 8oz chopped and cooked kale (or cabbage/greens)
6-8 spring onions, scallions or chives, chopped
milk (or cream)
butter
salt and pepper
Soften scallions in some butter. Boil the potatoes and mash with milk or cream until fairly smooth. Add spring onions, kale, salt and pepper and mix. Put into an oven proof bowl, make a well in the top of the colcannon and put as much butter as you can into the well. Place in the oven until everything is piping hot. I like mine to brown slightly on top.
Served with a slice of boiled bacon, or ham, or fried if you must. Delicious and it takes me back all those years and all those miles.
Lyrics [and translation]:
Well did you ever make colcannon, Made with lovely pickled cream [buttermilk] With the greens & scallions mingled Like a picture in a dream Did you ever make the hole on top To hold the meltin' flake Of the creamy flavoured butter That our mothers used to make
Oh you did, so you did So did he and so did I And the more I think about it Sure the nearer I'm to cry Oh weren't them the happy days When troubles we knew not And our mothers made colcannon
In the little skillet pot.
Well, did you ever take potato cake [flat bread made from potato and flour] And boxty to the school [fried mashed and grated potato] Tucked underneath your oxter with [armpit] Your books, your slate and rule And when teacher wasn't looking' sure a great big bite you'd take Of the creamy flavoured soft and meltin' sweet potato cake .
.
. Well did you ever go a courtin' boys When the evenin' sun went down And the moon began a peepin' From behind the Hill O' Down And you wandered down the boreen [rural lane] Where the clúrachán was seen [leprechaun] And you whispered love and praises to Your own dear sweet cáilín [young girl(colleen)]
Oh you did, so you did So did he and so did I And the more I think about it Sure the nearer I'm to cry Oh weren't them the happy days When troubles we knew not And our mothers made colcannon
In the little skillet pot.
I really can't believe that it was four years ago when I took this photo one morning in Monaco as the sun shone over the Mediterranean Sea. Not exactly sunrise, but close.
Shortly afterwards I went for a walk along the sea front and came across the Champions Promenade. Footprints of the stars, I supposed, judging by the little logo on the right.
I didn't know what it was at first because I had obviously approached from the wrong direction. What I first saw were footprints, named footprints.
In fact, there were rows of footprints, all named but these were the only ones which had a name I recognised. George Best. A fallen star, if ever there was one. So sad.
Updated after YTSL's question: The Champions' Promenade is the place where the winners of the Golden Foot Award have their footprints displayed. Each year ten footballers (soccer players) are nominated for their athletic achievements and personality and the winner is chosen by an online poll. The player must be still active and over 29 years.
Later that same day there was a beautiful sunset with a moon but no stars.
The evening sun makes Cap Martin glow in the remains of the light.
"The day is done, and the darkness, Falls from the wings of Night, As a feather is wafted downward, From an eagle in his flight"
~Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
My path is clear again! For the last several months the footpath along this part of the sea front has been entirely closed while they finished off the seawall and resurfaced the path. I can't tell you how aggravating it is to have to cross to the other side of the road, and then cross all the little side roads that lead up to the sea. Never mind. It's all over now, nearly.
When they first started out on this project, I was surprised and puzzled to see the word GAP marked in bright yellow paint along the path of the great new sea wall. How does a sea wall work if it has gaps in it?
I discovered the answer when I was in Whitstable.
At the time I was more interested in the alleys that lead from the High Street to the sea but I did notice they had wooden planks across their gaps. I guessed they'd be doing the same for us.
They have the posts already in place though I still think it can't be as sea resistant as the wall itself. Though wooden boats seem sea resistant enough most of the time. If so, why not have the whole wall in wood? That would seem more environmentally friendly.
They're still working down at the far end, or they were this morning. Close to finished, I would say, with a lot of brushing up going on.
But they still won't let us on the beach. Soon I hope. Not that I'll be going down to the beach in the rain we have now, or in the fog they predict for tomorrow.
So, taking Adullamite's advice (in advance so maybe I'm psychic) I visited Whistable to look at what the sea there had to offer. It must be 3 years since I last made a visit.
This is the sea view towards the Isle of Sheppey.
There isn't much on the Isle of Sheppey worth talking about, I'm told. I may be doing the population of Sheppey a great disservice but I was assured by students I sent on work placements there that it's the back of beyond.
Whitstable itself is quite attractive.
It was once a great fishing port and especially renowned for oysters. Even the Romans knew of the oysters from Whitstable. They have an Oyster Festival each July where you can watch a boat come in with oysters and they offload it. Then another boat arrives with oysters and thet offload that. And so on. I may be doing the oyster fishermen a great disservice.
But the point of this post is that they have preserved the buildings in the town centre pretty well. It is an attractive High Street. It's a shame quite so many of the shops are now charity shops, almost every charity I've ever heard of seemed to be represented there. At the same time there were plenty of local shops plus an awful lot of good quality trash and trinkets.
It was Peter Cushing who drew me there.
Wetherspoons have taken over a building in our little town and while I was moaning about yet another chain a friend told me that they sometimes do things well, for example in Whitstable. And indeed they have made a superb conversion of the old cinema. Inside is beautiful: old cinema equipment in the foyer and the interior done in an art deco style.
I noticed that BetFred had taken over an old church or chapel which doesn't seem entirely appropriate.
But best of all was this row of buildings
Note Days Garage at the centre. You will need to click on the image because it's small. In that space they do car sales, MOT testing, and repairs. I think I found a Tardis.
PS. I've had to stop allowing anyone commenting because of the very tedious spam I've been getting. So there's no signing in with your name and url any more, I'm afraid, but it works like a dream so far.
